Wanted Magazine: Matohu Interview

From the premiere issue of Wanted Magazine: http://www.awantedmag.com/Issue-1/matohu.html

With a new guard of forward-thinking young talent emerging, Japan is rapidly becoming a fashion destination for those seeking an escape from the mundane. Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi are two of these such designers. Taught by the very best (i.e.: Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo), Hiroyuki and Makiko were well qualified by the time they launched their label in 2004. Titled Matohu, the designers are well versed in the art of traditional Japanese textiles. They use the same fabric techniques developed by wealthy Japanese merchants in the Momoyama period, a fleeting era that existed from 1568 to 1603. Though their craft stems from the past, Hiroyuki and Makiko fuse these rich techniques with their innovative design concepts of freedom and movement—in the end creating something that extends itself beyond fashion.

Matohu’s latest collection for Autumn/Winter 2009 further expands upon these ideals. The theme for this collection is “Kabukimono,” a type of anarchic wandering warrior from the Keich? era of 1596 to 1615. Just like the modern-day punk movement, the Kabukimono refused to behave by society’s rules. They defected from their Samurai masters and chose to dress and act with reckless abandon. The collection itself is sharp, angular, textured and almost entirely black—except for several splashes of white and vibrant blue. Long coats and strong shoulders, futuristic leather jackets and skirts, and complex knits made from Tibetan lamb and mink created severe silhouettes on the catwalk. Blending the past with the new, Matohu are carving their own creative niche in fashion history.

WANTED: What triggered your decision to first get involved in the fashion industry?

Hiroyuki Horihata: To have seen works by Yohji, Issey and Comme des Garcons in a museum in Kyoto.

W: You and Makiko met each other while attending Bunka Fashion College-- how did you meet exactly?

HH: We actually met at a foundation course on the first day of class-- we soon became best friends.

W: “Matohu” means “to wear lightly” – to wear in a way that creates an atmosphere of beauty but also with a sense of restraint. Can you discuss these notions and why you decided upon this name for your label?

HH: We wanted to name our label not just after our own names, but a pure Japanese word that is impossible to translate into other languages. “Matohu” is a verb, and it is originally a very special word of how to wear the Kimono.

W: You’ve worked for both Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. What was it like to work for two of the biggest designers in Japanese fashion (as well as fashion in general)?

HH: It was extremely tough-- beyond description.

W: What are some of the most valuable lessons you learned from these designers?

HH: We learned that they were our masters. We learned everything from them such as creativity, a special way to make clothes, textiles and the mind of “Never-give-up.” / the thought process of never giving up.

W: Your label is known for taking a spin on traditional Japanese themes and concepts by reinterpreting them into modern-day fashion masterpieces. Can you discuss your focus on the ‘Momoyama’ period?

HH: It was the most attractive age to us in Japanese History. It was a brief span of free thought, chaotic fashion, foreign influences and trade, which gave birth to an elegant, minimalist style.

W: Where else to you take inspiration from when designing your clothing?

HH: In ordinary and beautiful things in our lives, like seeing blooming flowers on the way home from work.

W: How are the two of you able to work together to achieve your collective vision? Is it ever difficult to agree on certain things? How did you develop the label’s style?

HH: There is no difficulty between us. When there is some disagreement, we discuss it until we can each share our opinions.

W: What is going on in your heads when you’re in the middle of designing a collection?

HH: Just concentration. Nothing except that.

W: I like how the Kabukimono warriors share characteristics with the modern-day punk movement – both were resistant to conformity and social norms, and both, (with their dark garments and bold hairstyles) stood out in a crowd for what they believed in. Can you discuss this?

HH: If you want to be original, you have to be brave in your own style. Kabukimono is a way of life-- of standing alone and having a strong will.

W: What types of fabric do you most enjoy working with?

HH: We’ve always enjoyed making original textiles for every collection.

W: The economic downturn has caused some designers to introduce more austerity into their collections, while other designers have opted to provide their clients with a route of escapism and fantasy. Do you think that the recession has had any effect on the way you design clothing?

HH: Nothing. We are going to do it according to our way.

W: What are you plans for the future of your label?

HH: To go global.

W: Horihata, you originally studied menswear in school – do you think Matohu will launch a men’s line as well? Your designs are already very androgynous.

HH: We already make making men’s sizes in Matohu already as well. It is actually a unisex brand.

W: Do you plan to eventually have a fashion show in Paris? Or would you rather continue to promote Japanese fashion week?

HH: Right now we are waiting for what we should do next and the right time to do it.

Written Carolyn Brennan
Photos courtesy of Matohu